CLIMBING GUILLAUMET SPIRE IN PATAGONIA

Guided Mixed Climbing in Fitz Roy Massif, Southern Patagonia

CLIMBING GUILLAUMET SPIRE IN PATAGONIA

Guided Mixed Climbing in Fitz Roy Massif, Southern Patagonia

  • LENGTH TRIP
    6 Days or 3 days

  • SEASON
    November- March

  • LEVEL
    Advanced rock climbers able to follow 5.10/ 60/70º ice climbs.

  • STYLE
    Alpine climbing on granite. Some snow/ice (Brenner). Snow and ice climbing (Amy Couloir)

  • TRIP DATES
    On request

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRIP

  • Climb on the Fitz Roy range
  • Views of the Patagonian Icecap, Fitz Roy and Pollone valley
  • Rock & Ice climbing in a true spire in Patagonia
  • For experienced mountaineers & climbers
RATES

Price per person
US$ -.

QUESTIONS?
TRIP DETAILS

This expedition is a alpine climbing trip in Southern Patagonia. The Aguja Guillaumet is a satellite spire of the Fitz Roy Massif.  It takes its name from Henri Guillaumet, a French pilot who flew his small postal plane to small towns of Patagonia crossing the high Andes. Along with Antoine de Saint-Exupery and Jean Mermoz, he established the first mail routes in remote areas around the world.

Operated by a partner Official Prestador de Servicios de Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. 

INTINERARY

Day 1:
Your mountain guide will meet you in El Chalten, Argentina.  Get to know your guide and go over gear, take an easy day for some sport climbing and check skills and communication
Night in El Chalten.

Day 2:
Leaving El Chalten with your climbing guide, we hike 3 hours to Piedra del Fraile.  This will be our basecamp. Weather permitting, we will continue on closer to the base of the Guillaumet Spire and carry our gear load to Camp I, Vivac Piedra Negra.
Wait until weather improves at Base Camp or Camp I, and get ready for our alpine climbing ascent.Bivouac or tent according to weather

Day 3:
Your mountain guide will get you up for alpine start to climb the Guillaumet Spire by the Amy route:  4 pitches 60-70º snow/ice culoir + 4 pitches of 5.9 alpine climbing.  OR, climb the Brenner route on the Espolon Dorado (Golden Spur): amazing granite climb of 5.10+ for just one pitch and the rest 5.6 to 5.9 with some mixed scrambling involved.
Climbs depend on condition Rappel down. Hike back to Camp I.Night in bivouac or tent

Day 4:
Bring loads down to Base Camp and El Chalten.  Celebratory meal at the end of the expedition with a typical Patagonian asado.

Day 5/6/7:
Weather days. End of guiding services.

*This itinerary is a guideline and must be flexible to Patagonia’s infamous weather.

If weather is not favorable for climbing your mountain guide will take you to do alternative activities such as:

Hike to Marconi Pass, which is the entrance to the Patagonian Ice Cap.
Bouldering and Sport Climbing near El Chalten.
Hike to Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy base camp.
Your mountain guide will have numerous other ideas for activities to explore such as trekking through the Glaciers National Park or going on a technical trek.

If the weather is good and you complete the climbing ascent of Guillaumet within the first few days, your mountain guide can take you to climb more spires or suggest different activities for the rest of your vacation.

GEAR LIST

This gear list is designed for Multiday Expedition in the mountains staying in tents or huts for extended period of time as our Expedition to Monte San Lorenzo, San Valentin, Skiing Ice Cap traverse Mountains as Gorra Blanca on skis

  • Backpack 42-50 lts
  • Sleeping bag ideal 700/800 grams of down fill
  • Sleeping pad as Therm-a-Rest or similar
  • Bivy sack
  • 2 pairs of  sintethic socks (like Columbia or similar)
  • Quick dry pants with Schoeller material (North face, Mammut or similar)
  • Merino wool long underwear
  • Water proof Goretex pants
  • T shirt- Capilene or Merino wool ideal
  • Thin fleece, like Patagonia R1 or similar with a hood ideal
  • Mid fleece layer or synthetic Jacket with some insulation
  • Down jacket or warm puffy
  • Water proof Goretex jacket
  • Thin Fleece gloves for skinning or waiting in belays
  • Thick ski gloves
  • Warm hat
  • Sun hat
  • Sunglasses with UV filter + Goggles
  • Sun screen and lipstick
  • Waterbottle Nalgene or similar
  • Thermos 0.5 liters ideal for warm drinks
  • Crocs

For Ski Trips:

  • Helmet
  • Telemark, Split board  or ski touring skis and bindings
  • Skins
  • Telemark, Snowboard or ski touring boots
  • Shovel, Beacon and probe
  • Boot Crampons and ice axe
  • Ski crampons mandatory specially in the spring
  • Ski poles
  • Harness
  • 2 Locking binners

Camping:

  • Mug  or Small Tupperware – pot for meals- or similar
  • Headlamp (Petzl Tikka plus, Black diamond or similar) – long reach ideal, but lightweight and extra batteries
  • Jetboil or Primus ETALite (ideal)
  • Spoon / fork
  • lighters
  • Pocket knife
  • Iphone/ Ipod music player- optional
  • Earplugs… very recommended (for Mt huts, windy days in tents)
  • Tooth brush and paste
INCLUDES
  • UIAGM-IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • Climbing gear
  • Tents
  • Cookware
  • All main meals in the mountains

Not included

  • Lodging in El Chalten
  • Meals in town
  • Personal gear such as boots, climbing shoes, sleeping bag.
  • Daily camping fee at base camp at Piedra del Fraile
  • Extra lunch snacks

PHOTO GALLERY

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